A night out

The day began with a stroll to one of Firenze's oldest flea markets. Although quaint, it was nearly deserted, so I did my usual and meandered the back streets, finding a lovely little shop with gorgeous Italian pottery. Now I just need to figure out how to get it all home! Most of what I bought is quite small, so I imagine it will end up in my carry on. I stopped for a cappuccino near the flea market, and noticed that a young man dressed in chef's garb, was bustling from the restaurant across the street to the cafe with trays of sumptuous pastries. Of course, I tried one. Bellissimoso! When I looked in the window of the larger restaurant, I discovered it was a supper club. Members only. The rules, posted outside, included "Be happy" and "Be open to new people and experiences". My kinda place! A little more research on line and I discovered that the chef who owns and operates the place is renowned, both for his culinary skill and his eccentricities. The after dinner show by his wife, a one woman comedienne act, was also favorably reviewed. Needless to say, I decided to become a member and join the festivities that evening! It would prove to be one of my better decisions! After lunch at the apartment and my daily siesta, I headed to the Boboli gardens. These famous gardens were built for one of the later Medici's wives, to escape the heat of the city. It's associated with (adjacent to) the Pitti palace, really a fortress, built to impress and intimidate! Florence has been experiencing a heat wave, along with high humidity. I strolled the gardens, keeping to the shade, but even so, I was ready to head back after an hour or so. Even though it is so hot, the streets and tourist attractions around Florence have been packed. The gardens weren't too bad, but I was still ready to head into some air conditioning. Back home, I rested, then took a cool shower, leaving myself enough time to walk slowly in the heat to the restaurant. They told me to arrive by 7, and that everyone seats themselves. It sounded like it would be a bit of a scrum, but it ended up being very civilized (read the club rules!). I chose a seat at a small table with two young women traveling to a wedding and a young couple having a last hurrah before settling down and having a family. The wedding guests were from Paris and the young married couple from Georgia. Other guests were from all over, but there were a fair number of Italians too. At Teatro de Sale you bus your own table, and each course is announced fortissimo by chef Picchi himself from his adjacent glass enclosed kitchen. Some courses he would serve you himself, passing the plates to guests in line. Others were placed on a table and served buffet style. Water and red wine was help yourself, or you could order a bottle. I ate and drank my way through 5 courses of fabulous food, including a lovely chicken meatball dish, fish in a very lightly seasoned oil, and homemade gelato. My dinner companions were delightful, and we all agreed the dinner experience alone was worth the price of admission. The entertainment that followed, however, topped the night! Of course, it was all in Italian, but she was so expressive, you could just tell what she was talking about. She mimicked the Italian gestures, and did a hilarious sketch of riding the bus and the various passengers reactions to a typically cute, high heeled young woman squeezing on the already crowded bus. We all laughed till we cried. It was all very Italian and a night I won't soon forget!

A day spent with the Medici

I've learned my lesson; get up early, have a minimum of two, preferably three coffees, and then begin touring. Stop, refresh with a light lunch at the apartment (salame, cheese, tomatoes, and bread washed down with ice cold Spumante) and a rest. Then off to a late afternoon or early evening walk. A late dinner after 8 when the temp has cooled to a reasonable degree. Ah! Multo bene! Today I began quite early. The goal, at least initially; The David. It was easily as amazing as I had expected, not least because the stone somehow simultaneously captured an expression of apprehension and determination on young David's face, depending on the direction from which he is viewed. Truly a remarkable piece. You can imagine his emotions, clutching his rock, facing the giant. The stone truly lives. Also housed in the museum was a Picasso, a portrait of one his son's, I think. It was very sweet and conveyed great affection. If I'm not mistaken, though he had several mistresses, Picasso was also a very devoted father. It shows clearly in this early portrait. Over one block and down just two is the Medici-Ricardi residence, so called because it was sold at one point by the Medici to the Ricardi's. What a find! This is definitely a must see, off the beaten path so it's not swamped by tourists as many of the sights are, and has some of the most beautiful frescos, art, and architecture I've seen yet. The walled garden with the enormous gates, which was once the front entrance, was magnificent, and there was virtually no one there. You could see the restoration work being done in small side rooms; people pouring over old manuscripts, tools and papers littering the work space. It was easy to imagine the de Medici's, in all their finery, strolling through the magnificent high ceilinged galleries, entertaining their guests and dignitaries in the great halls! After the Medici residence, I walked the block or two over to visit the Medici church which now houses numerous fabulously ornate reliquary and is also home to several beautiful Michaelangelo statues, as well as the remains of Laurenzo and Guillermo; the brothers who were so famous for making Florence their home. The Pazzi conspiracy was an attempt to kill them both, but was only partially successful. Young Guillermo, lost his life that day, but Laurenzo escaped, and continued to rule Florence, maintaining his political power throughout the Italian renaissance until his death in 1492. With Laurenzo's death, the center of the Italian renaissance shifted to Rome, where it remained till around the end of the 17th century. After an afternoon rest, I opted for a stroll down the Ponte Veccio and surrounding area to shop. Not feeling up to a big dinner, I headed back to the apartment and watched the big game ( Italy versus Germany) while having my standard cheese, salame, tomatoes, olives and bread. Of course, listening to the live broadcast in Italian wasn't easy to understand, but it gave me a chance to work on my limited vocabulary. And no one could mistake the 2-1 score! Vive Italia!

An early morning hike through the Tuscan Hills.

Today began early, with far too little coffee! Note to self; never start a hike on just one espresso! The route I had intended to take actually ended up becoming much longer, as I wandered up in the hills above Florence, passing through one of the original arched entrances to the city, and following the cobbled road made by the early Romans. I passed by Gallileo's home, skirted enormous villas, and took in some breathtaking views of Florence, the Duomo shining in the distance. It was quiet so early on the morning; few people were even heading to work yet. But after two hours of trekking, I was ready for my second espresso! I made my way back to the city center, the morning traffic increasing steadily. Espresso in Italy is so different than in the U.S. It's very smooth, with none of the bitterness you get if you order it in America. Italians often add sugar, then gulp it down standing up, in one to two swallows. I've become rather fond of it drunk that way; it reminds me a great deal of the Arabic coffee throughout the middle east, but Arabs sit to drink theirs, and often linger over their coffee (the men anyway!) for hours. They would think the Italian method of drinking coffee a bit barbaric! The afternoon was hotter than blazes, so after venturing out to wander the streets a bit, I retreated indoors where it's much cooler to rest before heading out for a late dinner in the cool of the evening. Dinner was a traditional Italian meal in a noisy, packed trattoria with Italian being spoken fortissimo and plates and bottles clattering from the back kitchen. The waiter was a deLightful character, who basically told me what to order! It was all delicious. I'm very glad to be walking every day or I really would weigh a ton after this trip!

The top of the world...

Today dawned hot and bright. I'm ever so grateful for the air-conditioning in the bedroom , but I shudder to think of the cost! Ah well. Sleeping well might just be worth it. After a brief breakfast I headed to the Duomo. It seemed best to scale those heights before the heat of the day. The cupola of the Duomo is reached by a long, steep ,spiral stone staircase. The very top is over 300 feet from ground level, so it's a bit of a climb. The breathtaking views of the city and light breezes were worth the long climb, though. And along the way you transfer from the inside of the dome with its ceiling frescos of hell and the devil (brrr...scary enough to frighten anybody into virtuous behavior) to the outer much narrower staircase leading to the very top. Numerous photos later, and I was ready for the descent and a brief nap before having lunch and venturing out to the Uffizi. The Uffizi is just around the corner from the apartment, so I felt safe napping before heading there...it takes less than 5 minutes to walk over. A Firenzi card gets you in to all the main museums and attractions here, and is good for 3 days from start of use. Today I activated my card and stepped into the fabulous Uffizi museum. The Uffizi houses hundreds of paintings, nearly all of a religious nature. Some of my favorites were a gorgeous rendition of the Visitation showing Mary as a very young girl, with the Archangel Gabrielle leaning towards her. It's the classic pose, but the expressions on both their faces is stunning. Mary looks almost passive, but not quite. More accepting. And there is a wisdom in her young eyes beyond her years. The angel is remarkable; leaning forward with great intensity, and there is a movement about the piece that is difficult to describe. My other favorite was the only rendition of the Madonna and child where Jesus actually looks like a beautiful little baby boy. He's lying down on blankets laid over straw, with Mary leaning over him and reaching down as if to pick him up. The look of delight on her face is that of a young mother for her first born, but in her eyes there is just the barest hint of sadness too, as though she already knows what lies ahead. Amazing place, the Uffizi, with more art in one place than I've ever seen. A wonderful afternoon! Dinner was a more modest affair, but still deLightful. I opted for a little family style restaurant across the Ponte Veccio which served excellent steak, passably good chianti, and a salad. Then back to my little apartment for bed!

A full day

I spent most of today on my feet, and don't I know it! I felt as if I needed to get my bearings, so I spent today wandering, clocking about three miles in the hot Tuscan sun. Taking it slowly, I started with pastries and cappuccino from the little shop just around the corner from the apartment. Next, I wandered around the back streets, slowly making my way towards the Duomo. It was just getting hot and the crowds were getting thick when I finally made it to the famous Duomo, center of Florence. I decided against a heavy mid day meal, and opted for a bottle of cold spumante left by Rosella for her guests and some bread, salami, cheese and apples back at the apartment. Perfecto! A brief rest, and I was ready to cross the Arno to visit the world famous jewlers along the Ponte Veccio. I resisted the temptation, though the prices were quite reasonable considering the quality, and continued on to the other, more Bohemian side of Florence. My feet were tired and I was quite ready for a nap by four. Dinner ended up being a rather lengthy and marvelous meal, several courses long, and lasting several hours. The restaurant was a little trattoria in a side street frequented by locals, which seemed a good recommendation to me! After dinner, a walk around the square to view the Duomo at night was the perfect ending to a perfect day. Tomorrow, on to the Uffizi museum!

Arriving in Florence on midsummer's eve

Yesterday was a travel day. First the plane to Pisa, then negotiating the train to Florence. Despite some uncertainty about which platform, I still managed to end up on the right train and get off at the right station. Florence was busy at 3 in the afternoon, and since I was in dire need of a good leg stretching, I walked to the apartment. Rosella, the proprietress, was as charming as her correspondence. After settling in, I went in search of food and wine, finding both at a somewhat touristy restaurant with a none the less glorious view of the Palazzo Vecchio from my shady outdoor table. Dinner revived me enough for a stroll along the Arno river, a beautiful, lazy river that bisects the city and is crossed by numerous graceful old arched stone bridges, one of which is the famous Ponte Veccio. Since it was midsummer's eve, and the feast day of St. John as well (the city's patron saint) the town had planned a huge celebration, concluding with a wonderful firework's display from the fort atop the hill overlooking the city. Along with hundreds of others, I watched the fireworks reflected in the Arno river and then headed back to my delightful apartment and a much needed night of sleep.

London in June

I confess. I had to nap this afternoon which probably was unwise, but I was absolutely knackered. I slept on a bit, then headed by bus to the British Museum. I had to see the Queen's exhibit on the horse! The bus, the streets, the polyglot accents, it's all vaguely familiar. Apparently I look like a local since I've been asked directions twice, and a lovely elderly woman asked for help buying her train ticket. "Thank you, love. You have an unusual accent. Where are you from, dear?" I remember when I was here oh so long ago, going to University, the same thing happened. People couldn't quite place me. Something new, and very much needed in this busy city of 7825200 people, +/- 1000, is the adoption of a comprehensive bike swap program. Sturdy bikes are available in kiosks all over. You rent thema bit like zipcars;for a month or a year, and you return them to any of the locked bike stables around the city, retrieving one as needed. Great for bopping around the city, and much faster than public transport, though the busses and trains here put our public transport to shame.